Originally posted by Darkmage
ok, that cleared up some things... now the hard one... How do I make texures? yours look l33t.
Ok, you better have Adobe Photoshop or something with similar capabilities for this one... And it will take a while. Ok, here's my magic formula for fighter textures, in
9 simple steps:
(assuming that you already launched TS and separated the model in groups of faces according to which texture each of them is going to use)
1- Take a screen capture of the group you want to make a texture for, from the view you wish to apply textures from. Getting back to our Rapier example, if I wanted to texture the winglets above the engines, I'd go into side view, and hit Print Screen.
2- Load Adobe or whatever you are using, and paste that picture you just took as a new document. Cut the image around the area you want to texture - you won't need to texture your desktop or the rest of the screen capture
3- Create a new layer, paint it with the base color for your texture, the color that will be the background for all the other stuff. Hide/turn off this layer so you can see the outline of the what you want to texture.
4- Create a new layer preferably set to around 50% transparency, and draw the plating lines in it. Don't make them wider than 3 pixels or it will look cartoonish. Add two extra layers, and draw colored squares in them randomly. I use red, orange, and pink squares. Set one of these layers to between 10 and 15% transparency, and the other to around 20-25%. (These two are the differently colored squares that give impression of different layers of armor.)
5- Add another layer or two, transparencies set to around 20-40%. Use two different colors of airbrushes on them. Set the airbrush to "dissolve" mode, to give the texture some grainy-ness and dirty-ness. I use black for scorches and orange for rust. Make these effects more intense around areas like engine intakes, and around the plating lines so that they don't look so rough.
6- Add another layer, around 30% transparency. Take the airbrush (the "normal" one, not the dissolve) and use it around the plating lines, using a small brush size, around 8-15 pixels and a dark color, around 32,32,32 RGB... darker than that will look cartoonish. This will add some depth to the junctions between the plating lines.
7- One final layer, scratch marks. Around 50% transparency, with a dark, small "normal" airbrush again, but bigger than the one you used in step 6. Draw scratches and burnt stuff with this. Don't make scratches in several opposite directions or it will look silly. I also use this airbrush around the borders of stuff like wings, engine intakes, tips of cannons, etc.
8- Turn on the layer from step 3 to see how all this looks on top of the base color you've chosen... and to hide the outlines from the screen capture of the 3D model.
9- To add markings, logos, or any stuff that's painted, draw it on the base layer you've just turned on, NOT on top of the plating lines or scratches, etc.
That's about it, let me know if you need some more help.
Note: 80% of this tutorial is courtesy of Pascal "Decoy" Bos, the crazyiest dutch guy on Earth.
Originally posted by Wedge009
...perhaps the 'cleaner' spots could be a tad brighter?
Nope. I mean, literally, they can't. The brightest spots are almost pure white already, just with some blue tint to it.
You know what might help a little? Rendering the damn thing in a scene with with light. It just ocurred to me that the yellow-ish lights I'm using for my renders may be making the dirt too dark. (I hope this is the problem, because I'm running out of work-arounds
)
I'll try that soon...
--Eder